[TJ] Tadschikistan Pamir Durchquerung 2024

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  • thedutch
    Gerne im Forum
    • 20.11.2018
    • 83
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    • Meine Reisen

    [TJ] Tadschikistan Pamir Durchquerung 2024

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    This summer it would be Tajikistan for a bit of a longer walk through the Pamir mountain range.
    This “expedition” could be done by one self but I thought it to be smarter to join a team.
    The team: David from USA , Jerome from Ireland , Claire from UK and Nasrullo from Tajikistan.
    Roughly it was a 370 km hike divided in 4 stretches. After every stretch we organized a food resupply. Hiking start was from Vrang village on the Tajikistan border with Afghanistan from where we hiked north direction Kyrgyzstan border.
    The planned hike took us about 32/33 days including a rest day every now and then.
    We crossed passes up to 5000 meters a couple of glaciers and quite a few rivers.
    Some parts of the hike were pretty remote and not always easy. In the end we were all happy that we made it without any serious injuries or accidents.
    Nasrullo from Tajikistan was guide, interpreter, logistical expert all in one. He knew the first two stretches but the rest was terra nova.
    Enjoy the reading.

    Day 0

    This day was spent for an acclimatization hike.
    To avoid altitude sickness it is always a good thing to hike up high and sleep low.
    The altitude of Vrang is about 2900 meters.
    The hike was just beautiful. First interesting sight was that we passed an old buddhist stupa. The rest was hiking up a huge gorge.
    But I think best was the start of the day as the hostess of our homestay prepared a very nice breakfast.​

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    Buddhist stupa overlooking the Panj valley with Afghanistan on the other river side



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    Up this gorge just for acclimatization?



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    On our way back to our homestay down the same gorge as we came up



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    View towards the Afghan Hindu Kush



    Day 1

    Start of the trek from Vrang village.
    Full day of steep accent.
    At the end of the day the crossing of glacier stream coming down from Karl Marx peak wasn’t possible due to high water level so we decided to camp.
    Next morning the crossing was possible without even having to take off our shoes.​

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    Final picture with our hosts before leaving our homestay for the Pamir crossing




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    The first climb and many more to come



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    Lots of rocks for the days to come



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    Nice climb to get used to the altitude



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    Little break



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    The direction we are heading



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    Big packs that need to be carried up the first 5000 meter pass



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    Camp number 1. Just below the tents the glacial river that couldn’t be crossed late afternoon




    Day 2

    Early start and easy crossing of the river that could not be crossed yesterday.
    Bit of an easy day as Jerome wasn’t feeling well due to stomach issues.
    We camped at a deserted shepherd campsite.
    Camping altitude at 4150 meter​. Spectacular sight on a massive rock-face just in front of us.

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    Happy after the second river crossing of the day.



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    Sadly Ibex are killed for meat. Illegal but no one to enforce the law



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    All the streams need to be crossed. Sometimes jumping from stone to stone but a lot of times shoes have to come off



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    Many streams have to be crossed mostly multiple times. No bridges!



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    Camping at a deserted shepherd camp at 4150 meters



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    What a rock face, for sure never been climbed




    Day 3

    Day of crossing Vrang pass at 5000 meters. Pretty nice weather with great views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.
    The last bit to the top was pretty steep with lots of scree and we could really feel the altitude. Crossing the pass meant we had to traverse a glacier on the other side of the pass.
    After the crossing came a huge moraine but after the long descent we walked into a lovely valley with great views in all directions.
    We enjoyed a nice late afternoon around a jak dung fire, far away we saw ibex on a ridge.

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    Hiking up towards the pass



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    Magic



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    Life is beautiful



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    The landscape is pretty barren but every now and then flowers pop up



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    A lot of riverbed walking



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    Check out that massive glacier



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    Still time for a smile



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    Scree slopes that need full concentration



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    On top of Vrang pass at exactly 5000 meters



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    Coming down the glacier



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    The huge moraine



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    Vrang pass and the glacier we came down



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    Finally the valley



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    What a camping spot. Vrang pass in the background



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    Yak dung fire, imagine the smell




    Day 4

    A cold night with night frost but a lovely morning start with the sunlight on the surrounding peaks.
    The campground was just one of a kind.
    A long walk down the valley with a tea stop at a local shepherd.
    In Rubot village we were welcomed at a local homestay. We played a game of volleyball with the girls of our hosts and had some good laughs although none of us could speak a mutual language.
    After a fabulous dinner our host played local music.​


    What a beautiful morning




    A long walk down the valley




    Vrang pass in the background




    Tajik edelweiss




    Imagine that boulder bouncing down






    The shepherd dog. The people in the Pamirs cut the ears so that wolves have less skin to bite into and eventually kill the dog




    First sign of civilization






    The green below is Rubot village






    The resting backpacks at our homestay




    What a treat to take off our shoes




    Day 5

    This day became a rest day as Jerome got sick that night and had serious diarrhea.
    Luckily Claire had antibiotics so we could treat the poor guy. He slept most of the day as we went for a walk to the local shop (beer and cookies) and played some volleyball.
    The hostess of the homestay was lovely and took great care of sick Jerome.
    Our meals that she served were a real treat.​


    Rubot (total of about 15/20 households)




    The neatly organized village shop




    Must be a very hard life in the winter at 3300 meters




    No bakery so here is where you bake your bread




    Cooking the old fashioned way




    Our homestay




    Day 6

    Jerome felt a lot better as the antibiotics did their job. Together we decided that it would be better for him to take another rest day so that he could retain his strength.
    We just did a bit of nothing and enjoyed a nap, great food, lots of tea and beer.





    Day 7

    Left Rubot after a lovely goodbye from our hosts. It was a rather easy walk as most of the trail went more or less gently up a valley.
    The last bit was up through a dry and arid landscape. Camping was next to a stream not too far away from the pass at approximately 4000 meters.​


    The family that hosted us




    The start of our hike




    Looking back from where we came




    Arid landscape




    On the left a deserted shepherd camp




    Where there is water everything turns green




    Nature can be fascinating




    Crain for the shepherds?






    No need to take off shoes




    End of the day, you may take them off




    What a beautiful camping spot. But as soon as the sun went down the thermometer dropped below freezing




    Day 8

    After a really freezing morning start with no sun we finally got to the side of the mountain with sun.. What a treat! The views back from Duzakh pass at 4399 meters were incredible, we could see Vrang pass but also the 6000-meter mountains Karl Marx and Engels. Big part of the hike down went through a wide and green valley with their barren mountain flanks.
    The day ended at a shepherd shelter where we were invited for tea. Such warm hospitality from the Tajik people that have so little but share all.


    That morning we met shepherds that were leading their cows to their grazing




    Marx or Engels???




    Just amazing




    Lunch break on top of Duzakh pass at 4399 meter




    The direction we are going






    What a wild landscape




    What do they eat?




    Camping with a hungry cow




    Day 9

    After a nice cup of fresh goat milk tea at the shepherds hut we walked down the gorge to Duzakhdara village.
    A friend of our guide Nasrullo picked us up (phone connection) with his Toyota Landcruiser and drove us to Varshez on the Pamir highway. We stopped at the local shop and were happy to buy a few cold beers.
    After a bit of internet connection that made some of us really happy we continued to our homestay in the hamlet of Bachor.
    Check out the homestay bathroom in the fotos! It kind of puts one back on earth with the kind of luxury life we have at home.


    Nasrullo, the shepherd and his sons




    Looking back from where we came




    Looking direction where we are heading




    No words needed for a view like this




    Trail on the right side






    The first sign of civilization








    Perfect timing our car is there




    The village shop




    Shower house of our homestay in Bachor




    The actual do it yourself shower




    Harvest time




    Our homestay




    Our bed for the night




    The toilet. Make sure your flashlight works when you go out at night




    Day 10

    Said goodbye to the friendly couple of the homestay in Bachor. Lovely easy walking out of Bachor crossing two very dodgy suspension bridges.
    We walked up the lush and pretty green Andaravay valley.
    It was just another of these beautiful days..
    Nice late afternoon with a river wash..
    Probably a cold night at 3750-meter altitude.
    I had a yak visit at in the middle of the night. Some noise so I opened my tent a looked a yak straight in the eyes.



    A goodbye photo with our hosts





    First part was a easy walk through Bachor village





    Who wants to take the first turn?







    Looking back at Bachor





    The start of Andaravay valley





    Nasrullos brother in law joined us with his donkey and took some of our food









    Checking out the best place to cross the river





    Looking back from where we came





    Time for a break




    Yaks not far from our campsite




    Camp at roughly 3750 meters… Another cold night with yaks visiting

  • Flachlandtiroler
    Freak
    Moderator
    Liebt das Forum
    • 14.03.2003
    • 29654
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    #2
    Wow Looking forward to the continuation!
    (And pretty cool guys, going on a 5000m-pass right on the third day!)
    Meine Reisen (Karte)

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    • transient73
      Fuchs
      • 04.10.2017
      • 1100
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      #3
      This brings back memories.
      It captures my impression of the landscape perfectly.
      Wonderful pictures, thank you.​

      Klicke auf die Grafik für eine vergrößerte Ansicht

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      • thedutch
        Gerne im Forum
        • 20.11.2018
        • 83
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        • Meine Reisen

        #4
        Zitat von Flachlandtiroler Beitrag anzeigen
        Wow Looking forward to the continuation!
        (And pretty cool guys, going on a 5000m-pass right on the third day!)
        We closely monitored each other and would have turned around in case of altitude sickness.

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