[TJ] Tadschikistan Pamir Durchquerung 2024
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This summer it would be Tajikistan for a bit of a longer walk through the Pamir mountain range.
This “expedition” could be done by one self but I thought it to be smarter to join a team.
The team: David from USA , Jerome from Ireland , Claire from UK and Nasrullo from Tajikistan.
Roughly it was a 370 km hike divided in 4 stretches. After every stretch we organized a food resupply. Hiking start was from Vrang village on the Tajikistan border with Afghanistan from where we hiked north direction Kyrgyzstan border.
The planned hike took us about 32/33 days including a rest day every now and then.
We crossed passes up to 5000 meters a couple of glaciers and quite a few rivers.
Some parts of the hike were pretty remote and not always easy. In the end we were all happy that we made it without any serious injuries or accidents.
Nasrullo from Tajikistan was guide, interpreter, logistical expert all in one. He knew the first two stretches but the rest was terra nova.
Enjoy the reading.
Day 0
This day was spent for an acclimatization hike.
To avoid altitude sickness it is always a good thing to hike up high and sleep low.
The altitude of Vrang is about 2900 meters.
The hike was just beautiful. First interesting sight was that we passed an old buddhist stupa. The rest was hiking up a huge gorge.
But I think best was the start of the day as the hostess of our homestay prepared a very nice breakfast.
Buddhist stupa overlooking the Panj valley with Afghanistan on the other river side
Up this gorge just for acclimatization?
On our way back to our homestay down the same gorge as we came up
View towards the Afghan Hindu Kush
Day 1
Start of the trek from Vrang village.
Full day of steep accent.
At the end of the day the crossing of glacier stream coming down from Karl Marx peak wasn’t possible due to high water level so we decided to camp.
Next morning the crossing was possible without even having to take off our shoes.
Final picture with our hosts before leaving our homestay for the Pamir crossing
The first climb and many more to come
Lots of rocks for the days to come
Nice climb to get used to the altitude
Little break
The direction we are heading
Big packs that need to be carried up the first 5000 meter pass
Camp number 1. Just below the tents the glacial river that couldn’t be crossed late afternoon
Day 2
Early start and easy crossing of the river that could not be crossed yesterday.
Bit of an easy day as Jerome wasn’t feeling well due to stomach issues.
We camped at a deserted shepherd campsite.
Camping altitude at 4150 meter. Spectacular sight on a massive rock-face just in front of us.
Happy after the second river crossing of the day.
Sadly Ibex are killed for meat. Illegal but no one to enforce the law
All the streams need to be crossed. Sometimes jumping from stone to stone but a lot of times shoes have to come off
Many streams have to be crossed mostly multiple times. No bridges!
Camping at a deserted shepherd camp at 4150 meters
What a rock face, for sure never been climbed
Day 3
Day of crossing Vrang pass at 5000 meters. Pretty nice weather with great views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.
The last bit to the top was pretty steep with lots of scree and we could really feel the altitude. Crossing the pass meant we had to traverse a glacier on the other side of the pass.
After the crossing came a huge moraine but after the long descent we walked into a lovely valley with great views in all directions.
We enjoyed a nice late afternoon around a jak dung fire, far away we saw ibex on a ridge.
Hiking up towards the pass
Magic
Life is beautiful
The landscape is pretty barren but every now and then flowers pop up
A lot of riverbed walking
Check out that massive glacier
Still time for a smile
Scree slopes that need full concentration
On top of Vrang pass at exactly 5000 meters
Coming down the glacier
The huge moraine
Vrang pass and the glacier we came down
Finally the valley
What a camping spot. Vrang pass in the background
Yak dung fire, imagine the smell
Day 4
A cold night with night frost but a lovely morning start with the sunlight on the surrounding peaks.
The campground was just one of a kind.
A long walk down the valley with a tea stop at a local shepherd.
In Rubot village we were welcomed at a local homestay. We played a game of volleyball with the girls of our hosts and had some good laughs although none of us could speak a mutual language.
After a fabulous dinner our host played local music.
What a beautiful morning
A long walk down the valley
Vrang pass in the background
Tajik edelweiss
Imagine that boulder bouncing down
The shepherd dog. The people in the Pamirs cut the ears so that wolves have less skin to bite into and eventually kill the dog
First sign of civilization
The green below is Rubot village
The resting backpacks at our homestay
What a treat to take off our shoes
Day 5
This day became a rest day as Jerome got sick that night and had serious diarrhea.
Luckily Claire had antibiotics so we could treat the poor guy. He slept most of the day as we went for a walk to the local shop (beer and cookies) and played some volleyball.
The hostess of the homestay was lovely and took great care of sick Jerome.
Our meals that she served were a real treat.
Rubot (total of about 15/20 households)
The neatly organized village shop
Must be a very hard life in the winter at 3300 meters
No bakery so here is where you bake your bread
Cooking the old fashioned way
Our homestay
Day 6
Jerome felt a lot better as the antibiotics did their job. Together we decided that it would be better for him to take another rest day so that he could retain his strength.
We just did a bit of nothing and enjoyed a nap, great food, lots of tea and beer.
Day 7
Left Rubot after a lovely goodbye from our hosts. It was a rather easy walk as most of the trail went more or less gently up a valley.
The last bit was up through a dry and arid landscape. Camping was next to a stream not too far away from the pass at approximately 4000 meters.
The family that hosted us
The start of our hike
Looking back from where we came
Arid landscape
On the left a deserted shepherd camp
Where there is water everything turns green
Nature can be fascinating
Crain for the shepherds?
No need to take off shoes
End of the day, you may take them off
What a beautiful camping spot. But as soon as the sun went down the thermometer dropped below freezing
Day 8
After a really freezing morning start with no sun we finally got to the side of the mountain with sun.. What a treat! The views back from Duzakh pass at 4399 meters were incredible, we could see Vrang pass but also the 6000-meter mountains Karl Marx and Engels. Big part of the hike down went through a wide and green valley with their barren mountain flanks.
The day ended at a shepherd shelter where we were invited for tea. Such warm hospitality from the Tajik people that have so little but share all.
That morning we met shepherds that were leading their cows to their grazing
Marx or Engels???
Just amazing
Lunch break on top of Duzakh pass at 4399 meter
The direction we are going
What a wild landscape
What do they eat?
Camping with a hungry cow
Day 9
After a nice cup of fresh goat milk tea at the shepherds hut we walked down the gorge to Duzakhdara village.
A friend of our guide Nasrullo picked us up (phone connection) with his Toyota Landcruiser and drove us to Varshez on the Pamir highway. We stopped at the local shop and were happy to buy a few cold beers.
After a bit of internet connection that made some of us really happy we continued to our homestay in the hamlet of Bachor.
Check out the homestay bathroom in the fotos! It kind of puts one back on earth with the kind of luxury life we have at home.
Nasrullo, the shepherd and his sons
Looking back from where we came
Looking direction where we are heading
No words needed for a view like this
Trail on the right side
The first sign of civilization
Perfect timing our car is there
The village shop
Shower house of our homestay in Bachor
The actual do it yourself shower
Harvest time
Our homestay
Our bed for the night
The toilet. Make sure your flashlight works when you go out at night
Day 10
Said goodbye to the friendly couple of the homestay in Bachor. Lovely easy walking out of Bachor crossing two very dodgy suspension bridges.
We walked up the lush and pretty green Andaravay valley.
It was just another of these beautiful days..
Nice late afternoon with a river wash..
Probably a cold night at 3750-meter altitude.
I had a yak visit at in the middle of the night. Some noise so I opened my tent a looked a yak straight in the eyes.
A goodbye photo with our hosts
First part was a easy walk through Bachor village
Who wants to take the first turn?
Looking back at Bachor
The start of Andaravay valley
Nasrullos brother in law joined us with his donkey and took some of our food
Checking out the best place to cross the river
Looking back from where we came
Time for a break
Yaks not far from our campsite
Camp at roughly 3750 meters… Another cold night with yaks visiting
Looking forward to the continuation!
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